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(I like Kilz Oil based myself),
I wouldn't use KILZ oil based primer sealer on this project.
Basically, if you look at the MSDS sheet for KILZ Sealer it's an ordinary alkyd primer, but it uses a mixture of 60% naptha (camping fuel) and 40% mineral spirits as the thinner instead of all mineral spirits like a normal interior or exterior alkyd primer. So, the reason why it "dries" so fast is because the naptha in it evaporates much more rapidly than mineral spirits.
Remember, the goal here is to get a good looking paint job, and that means not seeing brush strokes all over it. KILZ, with it's very fast solvent evaporation is going to become viscous much more rapidly than an ordinary primer would, and that's a situation that's conducive to your leaving brush strokes in the primer that will show through on the paint.
I'd go with an interior alkyd primer from Benjamin Moore or Pratt & Lambert. And, consider thinning it with mineral spirits or Penetrol depending on whether or not you're going to be priming vertical surfaces or turning the piece as each face dries so that you're only painting horizontal surfaces.
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Any preference between semi-gloss or satin.
Basically, the higher the gloss, the easier it will be to clean the paint with simple wiping, but the less well it will hide an underlying colour.
If you're relatively new at this, then I'd gravitate towards lower gloss than higher gloss. The reason why is that your eye notices aberations in the way light reflects off a surface, and the brain interprets these aberations to be due to imperfections in the surface. Less glossy paints scatter light, so imperfections in the paint's surface are much less noticable than on a high gloss paint. This is why new houses will often have textured ceilings; so that the owners won't see defects in the drywalling; they'll be camoflaged by the texture.
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then go for the topcoat in an oil based enamel.
Many years ago, there was a difference between "enamel" and "paint". The very first enamels were almost certainly produced by tinting a can of varnish to the desired colour. Years ago, "oil based paints" were made by dissolving natural plant resins called "copals" (like amber, for example) into linseed oil. The real varnishes of the time were made the same way, only varnishes had more of those copals in them, and the copals were higher quality because they were lighter in colour and more transparent. Also, back then, varnish only came in two glosses, semigloss and gloss, whereas paint came in all the glosses from flat to high gloss.
So, if you were to tint a can of varnish in a paint tinting machine, you got a "paint" that dried to a smoother and harder film than you'd otherwise expect (cuz of the higher copal content in the varnish and the fact that the least glossy that paint could be was semigloss). Those tinted varnishes were called "enamel" paints, and so that word "enamel" came to mean a paint that would dry to a harder smoother film than you'd otherwise expect from a paint. Nowadays, polyurethane has replaced varnish as the clear coat of choice, so the most correct meaning for the word "enamel" nowadays would be a polyurethane based floor paint. However, the word "enamel" still retains it's original meaning so paint companies have chosen to use that meaning as a marketing tool by slapping that word on every can of paint they make, save perhaps for their dead flat latexes. Truth is, because of improvements in paint binders and rheology modifiers, EVERY paint nowdays dries to a harder and smoother film than the same paint did 20 years ago. So, every can of paint can arguably be called an "enamel". So, for example, Behr sells what they call a velvet "enamel" latex paint. That, is the equivalent of calling a city transit bus a "high performance racing vehicle".
So, nowadays, if you see the word "enamel" on a can of paint, you can be sure that what's in the can is still ordinary paint. The word "enamel" on the can of paint makes as much difference as the racing stripe does on a car.
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