bones774
enthusiast
Reged: 11/26/07
Posts: 280
Loc: Orange County NY
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I have an older stihl chainsaw made in germany, don't have model number right in front of me but maybe generic question.
I'm cleaning the air filter and it has a very fine fuzz covering the metal mesh, is this part of filtering material or should I clean it right down to the metal screen?
Thanks
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JasonB
Sharp Shooter
Reged: 04/27/04
Posts: 8766
Loc: Cape Spencer, New Brunswick, C...
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Heya Bones,
The fuzz is called flocking. It IS the air filter. The screen supports the filter.
Just blow the filter out with compressed air, or rinse with water and allow to dry.
J
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er, somethin'....
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bones774
enthusiast
Reged: 11/26/07
Posts: 280
Loc: Orange County NY
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Ok, Thanks, I already started to take out a small section of flocking before i got wise to come on forum, glad i did not proceed further, hopefully nothing catastrophic. Thnaks for fast reply.
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JasonB
Sharp Shooter
Reged: 04/27/04
Posts: 8766
Loc: Cape Spencer, New Brunswick, C...
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Might be wise to block the section of the filter you removed the flocking from. If it's small (less than 1/8th of the filter) it won't have a negative effect. I'd probably clog it up with epoxy or similar, otherwise, your engine stands to ingest grit and live a unnecessarily short life.
Otherwise, replace it. They are available.
J
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er, somethin'....
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EaglesFan
enthusiast
Reged: 02/20/09
Posts: 327
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Quote:
Might be wise to block the section of the filter you removed the flocking from. If it's small (less than 1/8th of the filter) it won't have a negative effect. I'd probably clog it up with epoxy or similar, otherwise, your engine stands to ingest grit and live a unnecessarily short life.
Otherwise, replace it. They are available.
J
How do you epoxy air?
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JasonB
Sharp Shooter
Reged: 04/27/04
Posts: 8766
Loc: Cape Spencer, New Brunswick, C...
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You smear epoxy over the part of the screen from which the flocking has been removed, thereby closing the "hole" in the filter. if it's too thin at first to stay put, it'll thicken as it begins to cure, or it can be thickened with the addition of flour, cornstarch etc.
J
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er, somethin'....
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bones774
enthusiast
Reged: 11/26/07
Posts: 280
Loc: Orange County NY
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Well the saw has been sitting for several years now, I put the carb back on ok, but now I have a no spark condition. Any known problems? could it be on/stop switch or magneto/dirty?
any help, this is frustrating.
Thanks
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JasonB
Sharp Shooter
Reged: 04/27/04
Posts: 8766
Loc: Cape Spencer, New Brunswick, C...
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They're generally reliable, but failures happen. Got a model number or approximate age? Older saws will have points'n'condenser ignition systems, and in those the p's and c are always suspect.
If after inspecting all the kill wire and points wire (if it exists) for damage or shorts, checking the kill switch (On and off, one tests open, the other short, opposite depending on points or solid state), checking that the flywheel magnet attracts a screwdriver..... and being sure the plug is new..... There is little to do short of parts replacement. If it's points'n'cond., replace them first. Otherwise, it's ignition module time.
The ignition module on stihl's tends to be expensive. I've a mid '60s model at home that stays dead for want of a $130 coil....
At that price, it'd pay to be very sure before spending money...
J
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er, somethin'....
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bones774
enthusiast
Reged: 11/26/07
Posts: 280
Loc: Orange County NY
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It's a mid 90's 032 AV, according to owners manual it is "breaker controlled magneto ignition". It goes on to say Breaker point gap 0.35-0.4 mm, So how to access? Thanks
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JasonB
Sharp Shooter
Reged: 04/27/04
Posts: 8766
Loc: Cape Spencer, New Brunswick, C...
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Points will be under the flywheel, along with the condenser and probably the magneto too. Most likely a points and condenser kit will sort things out (most likely....)
Loosen the nut that retains the flywheel. Have it threaded out far enough that the end of the crankshaft is protected by it, but still have as many threads as possible engaged. Rap the end of the crankshaft (hit the nut) sharply with a hammer and the flywheel will come free. Don't loose the key.
After that, look for a small cover under which the points are. Replace them with new ones, set the gap, and reassemble.
Not too hard if you're handy. If at any time you start to get lost, stop then, and at least take a couple digi photos to help you later... 
J
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er, somethin'....
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