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Process:

First, LIGHTLY sand the trim with a fine grit sanding sponge (easier than sand paper) or 220 grit sand paper. You are not trying to remove the finish, just to dull the surface.

Second, remove dust with a shop vac, then wipe the trim down with a painters rag dampened with liquid sander/deglosser.

Third, putty nail holes (if not already puttied- this may or may not have been done originally). If you need help with puttiing, let me know. Use a paintable wood putty. Once the putty dries, sand the putty smooth with the surface of the trim. Remove dust with a shop-vac and a deglosser dampened painters rag.


Fourth, mask trim as needed, then prime with a sandable oil based interior primer. Allow to dry.

Fifth, sand the primer LIGHTLY with a fine grit sanding sponge or 220 grit sandpaper. Be careful that the primer is dry enough to sand (will generate a dust when sanding instead of gooey balls). DO NOT SAND THROUGH THE PRIMER! Be especially carefull to go lightly on edges, as you can go right through the primer very quickly. Remove dust with a shop-vac and a deglosser dampened painters rag.

Sixth, remove masking, then caulk cracks and joints. It is critical that this caulk be invisible when painted, so be sure to do it right. If you need help with "precision trim caulking", let me know. Use latex painters white caulk ( i prefer sherwin williams caulks... they apply better especially in small precision applications like caulking trim and cabinets). Caulk the edge of the trim to the wall if your wall is painted. You may need some of the wall paint to touch this up once the trim is completed. If you do not have the wall paint and are not repainting the wall, use extreme caution when applying the caulk so that when you paint the trim, you can cover the caulk with the trim paint... this means not getting the caulk too far out onto the wall. Allow to dry.

Seventh, remask as needed, then apply your first coat of high gloss oil paint. IMPORTANT: Be sure you use a quality brush (Purdy white or black china bristle is best... Sherwin Williams also has good brushes, as does Wooster). Rinse new brushes in paint thinner and shake or spin to remove excess thinner before use (be carefull, new brushes sometimes have a few loose bristles which can wind up in your finish!). DO NOT use the same brush you primed with!Alot of painters like to use a 2 1/2 inch sash brush on trim (easiest to use), some prefer a 3" square brush. If you want to help eliminate brush marks, you can add Penetrol, a oil paint additive that aids in the smoothing of the film once applied (just follow the directions on the can).

Eighth, IF YOU NEED ANOTHER COAT: Once the paint is completely dry (about 2 days), VERY lightly sand and wipe with sander/deglosser again. Recoat.

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It's ok to use your primer brush for color coating. By the time you get to the second coat, you'll be fine. Keep your brush wrapped in foil in the freezer between coats. No need to clean until the job is done..

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