kamzoil
"redundzoil "
Reged: 11/30/08
Posts: 924
Loc: the great southwest USA
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Quote:
and if a grounded cord gets tugged enough the little piece of plastic under the ground lug opening breaks off. I've broken a couple of them in the garage workshop from the shop vac cord being pulled to far. If it was facing up I doubt it would break.
What do you mean by "the little piece of plastic under the ground lug?" What piece of plastic is this?
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code_ceis
Handyman
Reged: 04/29/09
Posts: 631
Loc: Western NY (just snuck across ...
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He is talking about the little piece left at the bottom of he ground hole and the edge of the cover on a standard duplex. Not an issue with decor pulgs as the piece is bigger.
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MCA
Carpal Tunnel
Reged: 03/09/06
Posts: 2554
Loc: Illinois
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Quote:
I have another stupid question, not about meters, but I've always wondered about those three prong receptacles in the wall. Which is the correct way to install them. With the Ground terminal facing down on the bottom of the receptacle or on the top side of the receptacle when looking straight at it
Just a little off the topic of meters 
It makes no difference. Around here they are horizontal. 4" square boxes with plaster rings are used since we have to use conduit and those boxes are easier for conduit installations. So we can put the plaster ring on either way, but local custom is to put them horizontal (for receptacles only of course). Neutral up on receptacles seems better (I had a metal tape measure touch a prong on a plug not fully inserted) but 99% of the installations are hot side up.
For vertical ground is usually down here. Some brands stamp their receptacles with "top" indicating ground up, but ground down seems much more common.
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roadhog
newbie
Reged: 10/02/08
Posts: 9
Loc: ct usa
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Quote:
He is talking about the little piece left at the bottom of he ground hole and the edge of the cover on a standard duplex. Not an issue with decor pulgs as the piece is bigger.
Yes, you are correct, the decor ones are flat with more plastic surrounding the openings. I probably could have been a little more specific describing it but you know the ones I'm referring to. I didn't think it mattered which way they were positioned but you never know about codes. I have positioned a few of them so that the cords hang correctly. For the most part the others are not a problem with the ground on the bottom because most electrical item in the home aren't three prong so the receptacle doesn't get broke. I think when the weather gets warmer I will flip all the ones in the Garage. There is a couple of broken ones out there now.
Getting back to those meters, I know I got a little of track here but I usually use a wiggy to check the voltage. In this case I wanted to know exactly what the voltage is not just getting a close reading. The wiggy will tell you if you have 120V or 240V. The DMM tells me I have exactly 122.9V and so far it's staying pretty consistent. That is why I asked about using the DMM instead of the wiggy. Vintage electronics such as amplifiers were designed to operate on 110V, 115V, and 117V. I'm considering an electrical Browner to reduce the operating voltage to within specs. From what I've read it will help reduce the stress on the components. Tubes, and Trannies will run cooler, and caps should last longer. In some instances it can change the tone of the amps also. People who have tried these claim their filament voltage was around 6.6V-7V and using one of these Browners dropped it to 6.3 or lower which is in spec.
Anyway Thanks for all the good advice here I really do appreciate it, I'll Be Back!
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