brooksnb
Super Handyman
Reged: 03/03/07
Posts: 2036
Loc: New Brunswick , Canada
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Quote:
Just ripped a couple sticks. I'm not sure why, but the wood is kicking back each time. Does this sound like I'm pressing to hard against the fence?
You will find that happens mostly when the fence is not perfectly square with the blade...to be %100 sure...measure fromthe front of the blade to the fence then again from the rear to the fence...the rear MUST not be different.
I keep my blade at least 1" higher than the material...some think it is high but I still count 10 fingers and not everyone who uses a saw for as many years on a daily basis can say the same.
Be sure to make yourself a nice little push stick for smaller pieces...keep them pretty fingers safe !!
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Dennis
Just another trouble making Canadian....
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dave
Super Handyman
Reged: 12/12/02
Posts: 2482
Loc: SE Minnesota
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Hmm. I usually keep the kerf of the blade maybe 1/4" above the work... 
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Se Vis Pacem, Para Bellum
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Scholastica
``Karen Kandoo``
Reged: 09/21/03
Posts: 1533
Loc: Brooklyn, NY
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I had it so the teeth were just about 1/2 way above (1/4") the wood. The blade this man gave me is bigger than my other. It's heavier/thicker. He said that since it was wider, it would give a cleaner cut...? It sure looks meaner!! 
I just tried cutting a small piece of plywood. Not even 10" wide/deep. Just about 1/2" from the end, the saw choked and threw the board up. It all seems very strange. I was cutting fine - basic cuts - before. I can't figure what I'm doing to make this happen. Not once. Not twice. But several times now. Maybe I'm just loosing my touch???
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Amateurs built the ark. Professionals built the Titanic.
Edited by Scholastica (01/24/10 02:36 PM)
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brooksnb
Super Handyman
Reged: 03/03/07
Posts: 2036
Loc: New Brunswick , Canada
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Quote:
I was cutting fine - basic cuts - before. I can't figure what I'm doing to make this happen. Not once. Not twice. But several times now. Maybe I'm just loosing my touch???
It definatly sounds like a combo of fence adjustment and blade being a little too low.
I always put a little pressure on the top of the wood as it exits the blade as well...this is where the little stick helps too...just a bit of pressure to counter the friction from the blade...especially upon exit of a short piece of wood.
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Dennis
Just another trouble making Canadian....
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Scholastica
``Karen Kandoo``
Reged: 09/21/03
Posts: 1533
Loc: Brooklyn, NY
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I checked the fence. I looks spot on. I used my combination square and measured from the miter slots to the fence on both ends and it was the same. I raised the blade so that it's about .5" above the wood. Ran a couple small pieces through fine. Then WHAM! It seems to catch underneath - as if it had hit a nail in the wood - and then it spits the wood back. I'm serioiusly glad I did not listen to the idiot at The Woodworkers Club in Norwalk, CT. The INSTRUCTOR told us to stand directly behind the blade!!!!!!! He knows we're not suppose to, but in reality this is how it's done. That was the last class I took there.
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Amateurs built the ark. Professionals built the Titanic.
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DonkeyDave
Reged: 12/12/03
Posts: 17085
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Is is possible to fit your saw with a riving knife?
Google riving knife for table saw
And take a look at this.
http://www.finewoodworking.com/ToolGuide/ToolGuideArticle.aspx?id=31896
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One of the penalties for refusing to participate in politics is that you end up being governed by your inferiors.
Plato
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brooksnb
Super Handyman
Reged: 03/03/07
Posts: 2036
Loc: New Brunswick , Canada
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Quote:
I used my combination square and measured from the miter slots to the fence on both ends and it was the same
I belive that I said to measure the forward and rear of the blade itself to the fence...if the arbor is out even a wee bit you will not have it correct.
Quote:
I raised the blade so that it's about .5" above the wood.
I believe I also noted to raise the blade at least ONE inch...anything less is cause for concern ...been there ...done that ...lol
Quote:
The INSTRUCTOR told us to stand directly behind the blade!
If he was working in my shop he would be shown the door for saftey reasons...always stan slightly to one side and if the stock decides to kick back it won't be as likely to hit you....If he had tried that with my 5 hp saw...he's be one very sorry man...and sore too.
There's a lot of people who think they know how to use a tablesaw properly but there's a WHOLE lot to it ...the stronger the saw...the less people can get away with unsafe procedures.
I have a couple of questions ...
What are you using for a blade ? what is the wood you are cutting ? are you absolutley sure the blade is not on backwards ? (happens to people more than you may think).
Is the blade a fresh one or does it need to be sharpend possibly ?
Once you get familiar with this saw you will be just fine ...I am glad you have the sense to ask all kinds of questions ...fingers are nice to have. Did you make a push stick yet ?? it will greatly reduce kickback and if it gets nipped it doesn't hurt 
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Dennis
Just another trouble making Canadian....
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Scholastica
``Karen Kandoo``
Reged: 09/21/03
Posts: 1533
Loc: Brooklyn, NY
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  I've done some stupid things...... I'm pretty sure the reason I'm getting kick-back is that I've been feeding it the wrong way. I think I'm putting to much pressure on the left (off-cut) and not holding down the piece on the fence side. Don't ask why. When I was watching my neighbor cut the pieces for my drawer, I was amazed at how big his hands were. I've been trying to imitate (incorrectly) how he seemed to hold it. I haven't used the saw much and it's been a while. Now that I'm pretty sure this is the case. I pulled out my "The Table Saw Book" (by Kelly Mahler)and watched a video where I was confused (surprise!) at how they held the wood. DING!!!
Now I just have to get up the nerve to try again. 
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Amateurs built the ark. Professionals built the Titanic.
Edited by Scholastica (01/27/10 06:57 AM)
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brooksnb
Super Handyman
Reged: 03/03/07
Posts: 2036
Loc: New Brunswick , Canada
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Quote:
I've done some stupid things......
At least you can admit it and LEARN from it...not everyone can. You certainly are not in the minority ...we ALL have done our share...just be carefull
When pushing a piece of stock through the saw ALWAYS exert more pressure on the portion that is between the fence and the blade. If you have a board that you only need to cut off ..let's say 1" and the board is 10" wide...rather than setting the fence at 1" ...set the fence at 9" less the blade thickness ...this will allow you to push the wide section through the saw rather than having to deal with only 1" ...
If you absolutly MUST remove only 1" ...then you MUST use a "push stick" in order to safely cut the stock. The push stick will allow you to put the pressure on the stock between the blade and the fence without endangering your fingers.
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Dennis
Just another trouble making Canadian....
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