Maineman
member
Reged: 01/23/05
Posts: 113
Loc: Maine
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Refinishing an outdoor pine bench. Didn't use a wood conditioner that allows even stain penetration on soft wood. The one coat of stain I applied is blotchy. Can I put the wood conditioner on now and then apply a second coat of stain? Using Cabot's Austrailian Timber oil stain.
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bozodog
Carpal Tunnel
Reged: 12/19/07
Posts: 9938
Loc: SW Michigan
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I wouldn't use conditioner at this point. Best to give it all a good sanding now. You can then try a nice wet wash with mineral spirits,(let dry) and if you want, apply the conditioner. The blotches are from machining polish that should have been sanded before staining.
Paint hint: Always sand new wood well before staining. #220 grit for softwoods, #180 on hard.
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Governments don’t bear the cost of anything; their citizens do.
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Dennis_H_N.J.
Sandwichless in N.J.
Reged: 03/12/02
Posts: 22923
Loc: Toms River, N.J.
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There are certain woods with either high pitch contents, hard-soft grouth rings.. These woods are pine, cherry, birch andmaple... There are others also... With these woods, I use gel stains.. then there no need for conditioner..
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Politico's make rules for others, and exceptions for themselves...
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Maineman
member
Reged: 01/23/05
Posts: 113
Loc: Maine
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I assume sanding and using mineral spirits (paint thinner) is to remove as much stain as possible? Then treat with conditioner and restain. Given what I have done,(listed below) I figure sanding with 100 grit and up would work OK.
What is machining polish? This bench had been polyurethaned and set outside for 4 or 5 years. The poly cracked and lifted in several areas over time, exposing some areas of the wood to weather but protecting other areas. I had to belt sand the remaining poly off with 40, 60, 80, 100 and then 120 grit belt sandpaper. Then I used my 5 inch random orbital sander using 60, 80, 100 and 150 grit sanding disks. By "blotchy" I mean the grain of the wood was very pronounced. The grain pattern was alternately dark and light. I typically use wood conditioner on plywood to get an even stain. Never had solid pine stain up so uneven. My guess is the uneven weathering led to the uneven staining in some areas but mostly the uneveness followed the wood grain. This bench is a gift to the former religious exploration director of our church for 20 years service. It is in a very visible location and want it to look as good as possible. If I need to sand off as much stain as possible and start over I will do that. The bench top is 18"d x 48"l x 6" thick with two 18"d x 14"h x 6" thick legs. No danger of me sanding off too much wood. Have a DeWalt 735 benchtop planer but it won't handle wood this big. Thinking of bringing it to a wood shop that can plane it clean and start over.
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bozodog
Carpal Tunnel
Reged: 12/19/07
Posts: 9938
Loc: SW Michigan
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AhhhHa! A more concise explanation. First, machine polish is caused by cutting tools (planers, routers) compressing the softer fibers on the surface of the wood. On moldings, for instance, it can be seen as shiny spots in the right light. (not your problem)
I believe your problem is the orbital sander and #150 paper. Pine is soft, and all wood should be sanded with the grain before staining. Conditioner helps to seal the soft, absorbent grain of the wood for a more even application of stain. I don't think the weathering has anything to do with your problem as long as all your sanding left no weather staining behind.
Wash it down with spirits, sand with the grain when dry using #220 and condition. No need to try and get all the stain off.
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Governments don’t bear the cost of anything; their citizens do.
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Maineman
member
Reged: 01/23/05
Posts: 113
Loc: Maine
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Thank you. Looks like hand sanding is required if the wood needs to be sanded with the grain. On the other hand, I have a 1/4 sheet finish sander with 14K orbits per min. Not a random orbital sander but the motion is not straight back and forth either. You are most likely familiar with this type of sander. Maine question: Can I use this sander you would it be best to hand sand?
Thanks,
Tom
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bozodog
Carpal Tunnel
Reged: 12/19/07
Posts: 9938
Loc: SW Michigan
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I find on smaller projects, hand sanding is faster than getting the sander out, plugging it in, and getting the proper grit attached. 
Take a sheet of paper, cut in half, (either dimension) fold thrice. Change folds when you begin to work too hard. After the spirit wash, you shouldn't need that much sanding.(you don't really need to remove all the stain) Just be sure all the #150 grit swirls are gone. (You can use a block of wood, but I find the hand does fine with #220 and only use a block when I'm sanding coats on a nice flat piece of furniture.) Add your conditioner and stain away.
Maybe only 20 minutes on a bench?
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Governments don’t bear the cost of anything; their citizens do.
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Maineman
member
Reged: 01/23/05
Posts: 113
Loc: Maine
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Thank you. 1/2 hour sanding and staining is a lot faster that what I had planned. Thanks for bailing me out.
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bozodog
Carpal Tunnel
Reged: 12/19/07
Posts: 9938
Loc: SW Michigan
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Let us know how it works out!
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Governments don’t bear the cost of anything; their citizens do.
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