Bob_Q
Carpal Tunnel
Reged: 06/28/01
Posts: 10068
Loc: Albany area,New York
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We get a lot of postings this time of year from people having problems with their small engines not starting or performing poorly in the spring,after being stored all winter.
This is usually caused by the fuel going bad during the time the mower,etc,is stored.
There are a couple ways to avoid this from happening. (1)you can stabilize the fuel by adding a fuel stabilizer and following the instructions on the container,or(2)drain the fuel from the tank,then run the engine until it stalls out from lack of fuel. The second,and most common and easy way,prevents old fuel from "gumming up" the works.
When you do neither,as I mentioned,the fuel will go bad from the variations of temperature while being stored,dampness,etc. It doesn't take long because small engine fuel tanks are normally small and don't hold much fuel,even when full. The less fuel in the tank,the shorter time it takes for it to go bad. You can easily tell bad fuel by smelling it. It will have a "varnish" smell to it,and will look darker in color,like honey,not the normal light yellow or almost clear color of fresh fuel.
If your engine runs poorly,backfires,or only runs with the choke partially or fully closed,bad fuel is usually the problem. Sometimes fresh fuel and a new spark plug will take care of it,but more times then not the carburator will either have to be cleaned or rebuilt,and in the worst case scenario,replaced. To avoid this,either stabilizing the fuel or draining the tank and carb in the fall after the last use of the year will prevent it. Both ways are very simple and take little time,a lot less time then it takes to fix your engine in the Spring when you do neither. I hope this information answered a few questions for you.
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WHAT IF??????
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vet767
fanatic
Reged: 12/02/04
Posts: 585
Loc: Wisconsin
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I also like to suggest that instead of just adding a stabilizer, at the end of the season, use an additive like All in One, from starbrite or seafoam all of the time. Both are not only a stabilizer but are fuel system cleaners also. I have been using All in One for about 15 years now in all of my small engines and about the only fuel related problems i have had are fuel filters or fuel lines degrading with age. Just something I believe helps.
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God I love old stuff
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gocolts
journeyman
Reged: 12/22/07
Posts: 55
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Does this apply more so for 2 cycle than 4 cycle? or Does it not matter? I have not done this before and normally I have good luck.....but I think I will definitely start!
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CabinConnection
Big Foot
Reged: 01/20/04
Posts: 20932
Loc: The Indianhead's Left Nostril....
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Quote:
Does this apply more so for 2 cycle than 4 cycle?
Generally speaking, yes. 2-strokes are more sensitive to "bad gas" than 4-strokes.
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JKEAJLAD
fanatic
Reged: 08/17/02
Posts: 551
Loc: MICHIGAN
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60 here today, Bring on spring, I got lots of little engines waiting to go. Suppose I'm a little early?
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Stromzilla
newbie
Reged: 04/06/09
Posts: 20
Loc: Milford, Michigan
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I agree with BobQ with the idea that 2-cycle engines are more sensitive when running with dirty carburetors/injectors. However, both are equally prone to getting screwed up due to poor off-season prep techniques. I'd like to add a couple of comments from my experience and one of them is I always treat the fuel regardless of when I operate the equipment because I never know when the last time of use will be, and for me it's cheap insurance. Plus, in addition to maintaining volatility, the stabilizer helps to keep diaphragms and other parts from drying out. Stabilizer also helps to remove/pass water which is in all gasoline. Try pooring gasoline through a fine screen in cold temperatures and notice the pile of ice crystals that form...it's surprising. Another process I strictly follow is to drain all carburetors at the end of the season and only AFTER the gasoline has been treated. And if you think running the engine out of fuel is the same, think again...doesn't count. Most carbs have a screw that can be loosend enough to drain. It's worth it. Why do I do this? Several years ago I tried to fire my wife's snowmobile engine in the fall and although it ran, I could tell it was running excessively lean. Tore down the carbs and found both carbs coated with the green scrunge...a moss-like material, only it wouldn't clean-up with standard practises. I had to soak it in an industrial strength cleaning solution and most of the jets had to be replaced. I've since determined that the slime is a result of having water in the carburetor over the summer months which fostered the growth of the green slime (probably bacteria). As a result, all carbs regardless of when they go into storage, get drained...it's so worth the time/effort. I also (as BobQ suggested) on occasion run additives through my engines during the season, especially any engine that doesn't go through gas within a couple of weeks...it just doesn't last anymore these days. And as I mentioned, my lawn equipment gets the stabilizer during the entire season. My 650cc 4-stroke bike is currently getting treated to a tankful of Amsoil's Performance Improver as a preventive maintenance practise at the season startup to help clean any crap that may have formed anywhere including the injectors. The bike also gets stabilizer run through it once in a while throughout the riding season along with an end-of-season oil change plus gas stabilizer too. I can't comment on the capability of the Amsoil PI other than from what I've read. However, based on what I've read, I have an element of trust in it's ability to clean. It's very concentrated. We'll see what happens.
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Paradox
fanatic
Reged: 09/10/08
Posts: 477
Loc: WA/US & Canada
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Quote:
2)drain the fuel from the tank,then run the engine until it stalls out from lack of fuel. The second,and most common and easy way,prevents old fuel from "gumming up" the works.
That is all I have ever done, and my mowers/weed eaters/ generator,etc. start easily every spring. My old 23??? year old mower runs great and besides a plug now and then, and a carb diaphragm, runs like a charm.
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Stromzilla
newbie
Reged: 04/06/09
Posts: 20
Loc: Milford, Michigan
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The reason I advocate draining the carburetor (carbs w/floatbowls) over running the engine out of fuel is because when you run out of fuel you don't necessarily get all the fluid out of the bowl which includes (possibly) water that would be at the very bottom along with potential sediments that have accumulated over time. The water as explained earlier is what I'm most concerned about. Weedwackers, trimmers, blowers, chainsaws, etc. don't have a bowl on the carb, therefore, my process involves draining the fuel tanks and running the engine out of fuel. If you're using gas stabilizer, Sea Foam, etc., there is less chance of having water accumulate because the aditives are designed to absorb water. Draining the bowl is just an added measure I perform because it's easy to do and it's another level of insurance against the worst-case scenario. I've disassembled my carbs on occasion to verify everthing is in order and have found them to be spotless. Whatever process is performed, if you've had good luck with it, stick with it. I've had some bad luck in the past and as a result follow what I believe to be a near bullet-proof process for steering clear of carburetor problems...and I wanted to share it with others.
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kdsdude2002
newbie
Reged: 05/03/09
Posts: 12
Loc: Missouri, usa
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Seafoam is a really good product, but sometimes it is too good. If you have dirt and debris building up inside your fuel tank and fuel lines, the seafoam will break loose the dirt and debris and cause it to by-pass to the fuel pump and/or the carburetor.
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CabinConnection
Big Foot
Reged: 01/20/04
Posts: 20932
Loc: The Indianhead's Left Nostril....
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And so if it bypasses a fuel pump and/or carb, what's the problem exactly? 
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