Shopping for Windows: Double-Glazed Options
We are looking to replace single-glazed aluminum windows with either double-glazed aluminum or vinyl
windows. Does anyone know any good sources of information to evaluate our options and find out about the quality of different brands? And, does anyone know much about Viking vinyl windows. We want to make sure the ones we get will last without fogging up between the two panes of glass.
Most major window manufactures now have websites to check there sites.
A hidden aspect: Some dual windows are just that two pieces of glass spaced and sealed. Then there are windows in which the dual panes are actually molded as a single unit, in a sort blown. This forms a sealed bulb in which the air is vacuumed out and filled with an inert gas such as Argon, which is " A good insulating value as well as anti-fog. A down side is that broken windows cost more and may take a few day to order.
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Difficulty of Replacing Windows
My husband & I live in a 1978 Townhome. The windows seals are broke - moisture between panes. It was helpful to read your other postings, but I still have a question. I come from a do-it-yourself family, he comes from a more pay to have it done family. How difficult is it to replace these window ourselves? They are sliders. We're both willing to try, but don't want to over extend ourselves. Hiring this project out will cost 2/12 times as much and I'm not sure we'll recover the cost when we sell.
The most difficult part of the job will be to handle the door/window because they are rather heavy. If you feel you can manage that, the removal and reinstallation is relatively simple. Note, I am talking about only replacing the windows, not the whole frame.
You should be able to buy the replacements from either a large home center or door supplier. They should be able to give you removal and installation directions for you particular door as well.
I am presently building a playhouse for my daughters and would like to know where I can purchase small windows similar to the ones you see on storage sheds. I've called several shed manufacturers and they claim they get their sheds from the Amish. I've tried Home Depot and local lumberyards but still can't seem to find what I need. The dimensions I'm looking for are approximately 17"-19" x 24"-32".
Try camper repair shops etc. They also have these type windows. Otherwise, you may need to use replacement basement windows since they can run this size. If you do not see the size you want at places like Home Depot ASK. They can get them for you. Look at the window replacement kits since they are vinyl sliders and can be attached from in outside and just popped into a cut out opening.
Argon Gas in Windows
A TRACO window rep told me his windows are the best because they have argon gas between the panes to insulate better and prevent sunlight from fading furniture and drapes. He wants to charge $25 extra per window for this gas. What do you think?
He is full of canal water. All window manufacturers offer Argon gas as an option. It does have a minimal effect on heat loss and UV light protection, but nothing you will see show up in your heat savings over the short term...Shop some more...
Contracting for Window Replacements
Two questions related to having someone install replacement windows.
1. I've heard that very large windows are subject to having condensation form within them. Is this true? If so, how is it avoided?
2. What are the basic things I should be asking the contractor about replacing windows? Not so much about the windows themselves, but what kind of guarantee he has on work, etc. I don't want to miss anything.
No matter the size, a poorly designed or constructed double pane window will eventually fail. The best way to avoid this is find out the manufacturer and check with existing installations that are more than two years old to see if any moisture has developed. Typically, a contractor will disavow any responsibility after one year.
Regarding guarantee from contractor, go for at least a one-year on parts and labor. If within the year you have a problem and contractor balks at repair you'll probably need an engineer to back up your claim in court. Best to check references and go see his work.
Remove Frame for Window Replacement?
I want to replace the windows in our house, which are 40 years old. They have aluminum frames built into walls with stucco exterior. We have had two contractors bid on this. The first guy wants to remove the entire window frame before installing the new windows. The second guy wants to leave the existing frames intact, which will reduce the glass area by about 1/4" all around, (which is not a problem). What is the best way to go? The first option (removing the entire frame seems dangerous because they will have to rip out the flashing that is nailed to the 2x4's in the wall.) This seems like it will cause stucco damage and possibly damage to the wood frames as well.
You probably have answered your own question. I would imagine the quote to leave the frames in place was cheaper too. However, if the frames are not in good shape replacing them is the way to go. From what you say, though, I imagine the frames are ok and if you like the windows with that option then leave the frames in.
Basic | Brick | Stucco | Vinyl Siding
Instructions for Replacing a Window
My parents want to replace the windows in our house. Where can I find a good set of instructions for them--complete with pictures? We have several sliding glass doors, a bay window, and several standard size windows--all 25 years old.
A good source would be a book like Reader's Digest Complete Do-It-Yourself Manual. In there they do show pictures and have directions for replacing windows. Look in the library and the book stores. (just as a minor plug, you can buy that book through Amazon, if you check out our Mall page on this site).
Also, where you are buying the windows, they may have some good literature on the topic.
Replacing Metal Frame Windows
I am getting ready to start replacing the old metal frame single pane windows in the house we recently bought. Can anyone give me tips on taking them out. I assume they have a metal flange between the brick and wall studs. How do I remove that? Saw it flush? Cut it out?
Also, what is the best way to measure for replacement windows? A few openings are not square when I measure the current inside opening. It might be that the dry wall is bucked out. Would this require taking out the drywall to get down to the rough opening?
Take the trim off from around the windows. You will be able to see the size of the rough opening then. As well as see how the windows are mounted. Chances are they do NOT have a flange behind the brick. With the trim removed you should be able to slip them right out (after removing the screws/nails into the framed opeing.
Replacing Old Windows
Bought a home built in 1975, the windows are the same age and provide very little insulation from the elements, condensationis present on all of them, and they let in a lot of outside noise. I want to install new double or triple pane windows throughout the home but don't know how. The home is sided with T1-11 wood siding.
The new double or triple pane windows will certainly help. But one thing to recognize, even the best windows will have condensation on them when a) It is very cold outside. and b) It is relatively humid inside. To remove the old ones, you will need to remove the trim from them both inside and out. When you do, you will see the rough opening they have been placed in and how the new ones will be mounted and installed. You will see on the sides of the window, screws that pass through the windows frame, perhaps through some shims to the rough opening's frame. These removed will allow the window to be removed. Make sure your new windows will fit into the rough opening. They are sold based on this size.
You can reuse your old molding, window trim if you are careful removing it.
J-Channel and Replacement Window
I'm adding a window on a wall with aluminum siding. The siding requires J-channel and drip cap around the window frame, but I can't figure out how to nail this trim in place, since their nailing flanges fit under the aluminum siding and are inaccessible. Anyone know how to solve this problem?
, I assume you are installing a replacement window since you did not mention the nailing fin on a new
construction window..If you did, you would be facing the same dilemma.
What I do in a case like this is either simply use a silicone caulk to 'glue the j channel to the window frame, drive a small finish nail through the siding and through the j channel in a couple places, or drive an aluminum nail from he j channel into the frame of the window or all or variations of all above...
Replacement Windows in Brick Houses
I'd like to replace my windows in a brick frame house. Once the old window is removed, how do I hold the new window in place w/o tearing out all the drywall and trim around the old window?
Completely depends upon how the window is trimmed to begin with...
First, replacement windows are screwed in through the side jambs in four locations, two per side. The trim and drywall have nothing to do with holding the window in.
If a window is trimmed in all drywall, for example, the window can be measured to be fit and installed directly over the existing drywall and simply caulked when it meets the drywall. Or you could add extension jambs, add casing, sills, etc.
If the window is already trimmed with extension jambs and casing, these will most likely need to be removed and either reinstalled or replaced for a proper fit once the window is in place. Same scenario if the brick work forces you to rip everything right out to the rough opening studs...
Replacing Windows in Block/Stucco House
I'm replacing windows in a concrete block/stucco home. What is the easiest way to remove the stucco that is currently holding in the old window? Hammer and chisel is pretty slow.
If you are not worried about extending your repair area, then use a small sledge hammer or large claw hammer. Be careful though, otherwise your repair work will extend beyond the window casing. Check at your local rental outlet as there is probably an air assisted impact hammer/chisel you could rent for half a day.
Some of that old stucco (if your house is old)is pretty durable stuff isn't it? Don't forget those safety glasses!
Replacing Windows in Previously Vinyl-Sided Home
I want to replace my old AL sliders with new double panes. However my home is covered with vinyl siding and I don't know how to work with it. I've installed windows in homes with both shingles and shakes numerous times before. I've even installed new vinyl siding from the ground up. My question is "Are there any tricks I should know about other then removing the majority of siding, How do the pros do it?"
Without removing all the siding. Since you have installed siding and windows before you know what you are getting into. But you should be able to remove only the vinyl siding's edge trim around the windows and and not much more, to get the new window in and flashed.
One more question, "Anderson vinyl clad windows offer a nailing flange, How can I get this
flange nailed behind the siding without removing any siding?
Actually I was picturing those windows when I answered your question. When you take the trim pieces off from around the window frame, you should be able to slide the window with flange, behind the siding. The siding probably isn't nailed right at the ends, and if it is, you can pull those nails out to leave the siding with some room to give as you slide it in. I know the siding above and below the window should not cause a problem, and the sides should be manageable.
I just replaced 4 large aluminum living room windows with vinyl windows. The sales rep told me the new low E windows would reduce the heat/cold and traffic noise! The first thing I noticed after the windows were installed was the increased amount of noise! Heat/cold appears to have been greatly reduced but the noise is a killer!
My question what recourse do I have since I didn't get the result I thought I was playing for?
Probably no recourse. Unless you were provided IN WRITING that these windows would reduce noise you are out of luck.
Normally, replacement windows DO reduce noise for old wooden sash windows, but I have never heard of any replacement window manufacturer guaranteeing that they would.
I believe that the problem is not on the window itself but the installation. Failure to insulate
adequatly is probably the source of the added noise.
You can plant a shrub hedge or install a fence.. anything to block the sound will help.
Window in Shower?I just bought a one bedroom house that has a tub but no shower. I removed ceramic tile that was up to the window,I now want to install a shower. There is although a window above the tub. Will this window pose any problems.....how could I seal or cover it(but not permanently)??
I have seen windows in showers before. If they are properly protected from the moisture they are.. at best ok. Trouble is.. the moisture tends to cuase problems sooner or later. Especially if you live where it gets cold.. and you have a TON of condensation there to deal with.
But if you intend to keep it.. since maybe it is the only window in the room, then make sure all the surfaces are protected as best you can. Tile right up to the window if possible.. Use enamal paints where you need to paint.. and caulk every seam and crack and crevice.
My husband and I are doing the same thing right now -replacing tile and making the tub a shower.
WE decide on cultured marlbe to avoid the possiblity of water getting between the tile when the
grout gets old (we had water to our wall because of old grout). The marble is put in place with
a silicone caulk and you will be able to see cracks easier. The marlble guys also installed marble
around the window sill ( thought we replace the window with glass blocks to provide a little privacy).
The marble around the window will provide one smooth surface and will have crevices only around the edges, which are filled with the silicon caulk. I am hoping that this is a better option than tile.
Replacing Window Frame/Trim
When we bought our house it had new windows. But the previous owner didn't replace the outside trim. That trim is now rotting and needs to be replaced. I thought I could get a "kit" to do the job but have found that is not the case. Being a novice at this sort of thing I'm wondering if it's difficult to replace or not too bad.
Well, how handy are you? You can do it if you own a saw and have the nerve. Of course if you hire a good professional, you will get a quality job, but that doesn't mean you can't do a very good job yourself. Besides, DOING this sort of thing is its own reward. Look around at similar houses.. and even the present trim. Can you duplicate it? That is the question for you. If you find a window trim style you like, copy it. Windows are often framed outside with a square header at the top and a smaller one at the base with square cuts on the side trim, so you don't even have to cut a miter joint. Ask.... if you need specific advice.. and we can go from there...
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