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Outside and Decks Fences Outdoors Q's and A's Can't find a solution to your problem? Post a question in our Forums. Installing a latice privacy fence What is the correct way to build a gate on a privicy fence? I need a gate that will last! I am assuming you have a railing of some sort next to you neighbor. I would build a 2x4 frame, attach some privacy lattice on the neighbor side then hold it upand anchor it to the railing using clamps or attach to the wall and floor...that part is up to you.You may have to search around for some clamps that will do the job, look in the fencing parts area, automotive etc, to find something that would work. Attaching it to the floor and the wall would be best however to give it the proper stability it needs. IF you cannot build it yourself purchase a pre-built fencing section..that would also work and adhere a 2x4 to the wall side and attach the fencing section to the 2x4 brace. That should be enough to hold it in place with maybe just a wired edge on the other side next to the rail. BOX like, square it off, attach fencing boards the same as you fence and install the proper fence hardware. They come in kits and often with fencing instructions.   Fence I have a chain link fence installed around my pool area. I would like to replace the fence on one side with a wood privacy fence. My problem is that the area is nothing but concrete. My question is do they make anchors for attaching 4x4 wood posts to concrete without me having to tear up the concrete or can you suggest a way to anchor the post to the concrete. One of my thoughts was to use the existing post for the chain link fence and somehow attaching the wood posts to them. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. They do make what you are looking for. Check out the post fasteners for attaching 4x4's or even 6x6's to a cement post. You will need to drill a hole in the cement and buy the expandable concrete bolts to bolt the fastener down. They work very well for a deck where all the load is vertical, which is NOT the case for a fence. Therefore I would leave the metal posts from the chain link fence in the ground and use those to supply the horizontal support. You can use c-clamps to clamp the post to the fence. Between the two, I believe you will get the sturdiness you are looking for.   Pillars with river rock veneer for fencing I would like to build to pillars detached at my property line to be included in my cedar fence. It would be a standard 6' column appx. 2'x 2'. Do I go with cinder block or wood frame. I would also like to include wiring to place lights on top. From scratch, I need some help. Any time you veneer with a stone the backup material should be as solid as possible. I would go with the block and run re-bar and a conduit for lights through the block and then grout them to ensure the stability of the column. They make metal wall ties to tie the stone to the block just lay them in the joints of the block to the joints of the stone.

Fencing

I require any and all information, tips, thoughts, ideas, etc. with regards to building a fence. My driveway runs beside my house and extends approximately 6ft. past the rear of my house. I currently have a 4ft. chain link fence with a man gate and a section that lifts out so that I can access the back yard with a vehicle. I have just purchased a spa tub and wish to construct a 6ft privacy fence including the man gate and vehicle access portion as mentioned above. I would greatly appreciate your help.

I recently fenced in my back yard with 6' privacy fence. I used the pressure treated fencing that comes in 8' sections, available at Home Depot, Lowe's and some lumber yards. It's a pretty easy project, but it does, at times, require more than one set of hands. I used the panels in a stair stepped pattern since my yard slopes. To keep the dog in, I dug a 16" trench along the base of the fence and buried fence wire, fastening the fence wire to the outside of the fence with poultry staples.

The most important tool you have to make the fence look decent is a level. Use the basic bar level, or whatever it's called, and use the kind that can be fastened to your posts with a rubber band. To line up the post hole, I used a string stretched from one end of the side to the other.

When you are setting your posts, be sure to fill the first few inches of your post holes with gravel to promote drainage. Wait 'till they are good and dry before trying to nail panels to them.

Be sure to use galvanized nails, I made the mistake of using coated sinkers, which have already started to rust.

Replacing wood posts for a fence

I have a 18-year-old fence that has rotten posts in the ground. I would like to put new posts up but do not want them in the ground. Is there any way to do this and still have a strong fence?

I think they are called metaposts or something like that. You can purchase at Home Depot. They are large spikes that are made of metal that you hammer into the ground. Then your 4x4 posts screw into these creating a slightly raised base so the posts do not rot as fast.

Using the proper wood will also help either pressure-treated or better is cedar or redwood.

Also, you can pore cement into the holes you have or dig new holes...set in some carport posts and again you screw you wood posts into these.

A least two other options for you. Also, NO there is no other way to do this for a strong fence without putting something into the ground. The metaposts or the blocks are the only way.

Another thought:
There is no way to have a solid fence (that lasts) without sinking posts. Having done several fences I've found the best approach is to rent a posthole auger (you'll need help to run it), use cement to set your posts and allow them to set properly before completing the rest of the fence. This approach will last years!

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